Naxos Town is the arrival point for all but air visitors. Hardly representative of the island as a whole, it is a mass of contradictions, offering a mix of a brash, touristy waterfront, a warren of lovely little backstreets winding up to a Venetian Kastro, and one of the most dramatic harbors in the Aegean - thanks to the romantic skyline arch of a ruined temple on the causeway-linked islet at the edge of the town (Naxos is one island where it is difficult not to know that you have arrived at the right island). The temple topped rock provides a beguiling promise to arriving ferry passengers of things to come. The 'rock' disco cowering beneath it is equally apposite in its own way.